Seychelles Re-Visited
Written by Tropical SkyTropical Sky’s Steve Garley ponders the changes that have taken place in the Seychelles since he was last there in 1991..
The airport looked much the same as it did all those years ago – still an old Air Seychelles Boeing 767 on the tarmac, roads still in the same state (single carriageway with a big drop on the side) but they were busier and there seemed to be more houses.


Two decades ago Mahé, the main island, had a gaggle of hotels that were all 2 to 4 star with pretty average service and uninspired food. Now there’s a good a range of 5 star properties that have sprung up on the island. The Banyan Tree (where I stayed) and St Anne Resort and Hotel show how the development of these excellent five star boutique hotels has coincided with the arrival of major supermarkets in Victoria.
When I was last on La Digue there were no cars at all – you travelled by ox cart and sturdy single speed bicycle. Now there are cars (just a few), the mountain bikes all have 18 gears and there’s a new department store called Gregoires. The idyllic beach of Anse, where they shot some of the old Bounty TV commercials, was all ours 18 years ago. Today, although we had to share it with 50 other tourists, it’s still one of the most beautiful beaches in the world!
Prices in the Seychelles were always high and that’s still the case. There has been a devaluation of the local currency, but prices remain steep, with beers around €6 each in the 5 star hotels and wine requiring a mortgage application. Very few hotels offer all inclusive, but it’s probably best to get half board anyway.
A lot of the outer islands like Denis, North Island, St Annes, Fregate and Silhouette have developed with designer hideaway hotels at the top of the 5 star range, but Bird Island is one of the last outer island experiences that definitely has not changed. The old buildings have been upgraded with new accommodation, bars and dining rooms, but the feel of the place is the same. There’s still no TV, no radio, no Internet, no air conditioning, no sun loungers. You come here to see nature (fantastic birdlife) and that’s exactly what you get!
The one thing that hasn’t changed (and will never will) about this tropical Indian Ocean paradise is its enticing appeal. The beaches, the colour of the water, the fish in the Ocean and on your plate, the sound of crashing Indian Ocean waves, the charm and the sheer beauty of the Seychelles haven’t tarnished with age or development. They are all exactly the same as before!
