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Seychelles Re-Visited

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Tropical Sky’s Steve Garley ponders the changes that have taken place in the Seychelles since he was last there in 1991..

The airport looked much the same as it did all those years ago – still an old Air Seychelles Boeing 767 on the tarmac, roads still in the same state (single carriageway with a big drop on the side) but they were busier and there seemed to be more houses.
Landing seychellesbird island lives up to its name

Two decades ago Mahé, the main island, had a gaggle of hotels that were all 2 to 4 star with pretty average service and uninspired food.  Now there’s a good a range of 5 star properties that have sprung up on the island. The Banyan Tree (where I stayed) and St Anne Resort and Hotel show how the development of these excellent five star boutique hotels has coincided with the arrival of major supermarkets in Victoria.

When I was last on La Digue there were no cars at all – you travelled by ox cart and sturdy single speed bicycle.  Now there are cars (just a few), the mountain bikes all have 18 gears and there’s a new department store called Gregoires.  The idyllic beach of Anse, where they shot some of the old Bounty TV commercials, was all ours 18 years ago. Today, although we had to share it with 50 other tourists, it’s still one of the most beautiful beaches in the world!

Prices in the Seychelles were always high and that’s still the case.  There has been a devaluation of the local currency, but prices remain steep, with beers around €6 each in the 5 star hotels and wine requiring a mortgage application.  Very few hotels offer all inclusive, but it’s probably best to get half board anyway.

A lot of the outer islands like Denis, North Island, St Annes, Fregate and Silhouette have developed with designer hideaway hotels at the top of the 5 star range, but Bird Island is one of the last outer island experiences that definitely has not changed. The old buildings have been upgraded with new accommodation, bars and dining rooms, but the feel of the place is the same. There’s still no TV, no radio, no Internet, no air conditioning, no sun loungers. You come here to see nature (fantastic birdlife) and that’s exactly what you get!

The one thing that hasn’t changed (and will never will) about this tropical Indian Ocean paradise is its enticing appeal.  The beaches, the colour of the water, the fish in the Ocean and on your plate, the sound of crashing Indian Ocean waves, the charm and the sheer beauty of the Seychelles haven’t tarnished with age or development.  They are all exactly the same as before!

Posted on April 24th, 2009 under Category 1 (RSS)

Beaches and Antiquity in Mexico

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Mexico provides some fantastic beach resorts overlooking the Caribbean Sea, but Tulum gives you all that plus impressive pre-history in one outstanding location….

The ancient Maya port and fortress of Tulum stands on a bluff facing the rising sun looking out on views of the Caribbean that are nothing less than spectacular.   Some maintain that Tulum means “Wall” (it’s certainly one of the very few walled cities the Maya ever built) while others suggest is means “Dawn”.  Either is spectacularly appropriate given the location.

the Maya ruins at Tulum from the southTulum Dreams Hotel

Tulum was a major link in the Maya’s extensive trade network.   Artefacts found at the site come from Central Mexico and as far afield as Central America with finds including ceramics from the Yucatán and jade and obsidian from Guatemala.  Tulum, like so many Maya cities before it, was abandoned when the Spaniards conquered the Yucatan.  The archaeological site is relatively compact compared with many other sites in the vicinity and is one of the best-preserved coastal Maya sites.  Its architecture is similar to nearby Chichen Itza, but on a much smaller scale.

A convenient base just five minutes away from the ruins of Tulum and not too far from the larger Mayan site of Chichen Itza is the Dreams Tulum Hotel, located on one of the most beautiful beaches on the Riviera Maya.   This excellent five star all inclusive hotel is ideal for singles, couples or families and as well a being just a bike ride from the ruins at Tulum, it boasts a range of gourmet restaurants, luxurious facilities and amenities and wonderful night time entertainment.

Posted on April 20th, 2009 under Category 1 (RSS)

Jazz in St Lucia

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As if you needed a reason to visit the Caribbean jewel of St Lucia!  Maybe the upcoming St Lucia jazz Festival could be it…..

Running from the 1st to the 10th of May, the main event is hosted at Pigeon Island National Park.  Apart from hosting the annual St Lucia jazz festival, Pigeon Island itself boasts a number of historical sites and two secluded beaches.   Guest artistes headlining this year include Amy Winehouse, the Original Wailers, Chicago, Patti La belle and George Duke.   However, it’s the free daytime entertainment that has grown in popularity and this “Free Fringe” now rivals the main event.

“Jazz on the Square” at The Derek Walcott Square is a series of lunch time concerts in the heart of Castries City in the picturesque square named after  Derek Walcott, the island’s Nobel Laureate in Literature.  “Jazz on the Pier” is held at Pointe Seraphine, St Lucia’s biggest duty free shopping complex, and “Tea Time Jazz” at La Place Carenage is the ideal follow-up to Lunch Time Jazz on the Square.

derek walcott square st luciaamy winehouse

“Fond D’Or Jazz” at Fond D’Or Heritage Park offers a breathtaking view, the cool breeze of the Caribbean Sea and the soothing sounds of local jazz music.   “Jazz in the South” at Rudy John Beach started out as a small community event that quickly became one of the main attractions in the Saint Lucia Jazz Festival.  “Jazz on the Beach” at Reduit Beach is the most recent event in festival, overlooking Rodney Bay within earshot of Pigeon Island.  “Soufriere Jazz” hosts a variety of shows at various locations around the town including Sulphur Springs Jazz at the world’s only drive-in-Volcano!

Posted on April 20th, 2009 under Category 1 (RSS)